Wow, so hard to believe we are in October now. We've been eight months in country, and even though we are still pretty new, time is flying by. It seems the past two or three months have been particularly busy with visitors, traveling, and finally some work. The seasons are changing and we can feel the beginning of our first hot/rainy south American summer. We've also had more adventures with our house in site and the electricity of our little town. Never a dull day in Bolivia.
It was great to see other volunteers from our group at our mini-reunion in Cochabamba. We had time to share stories and discuss any challenges we were having in our sites. We also met with others working on similar projects and exchanged ideas. There was also a little time to explore Cochabamba again and have some fun. During the weekend, a group of twelve of us climbed 17,000 Mt. Tunari. The weather was much better compared to our last trip up the mountain in March and the views from the top were much more spectacular than before. It was so clear that we could see the huge Cordillera Real near the city of La Paz over 300 miles away. We had views of 21,000+ foot Mt. Illimani and 19,900 foot Huayna Potosi, two classic Bolivian peaks that are relatively non-technical and accessible to amateur mountaineers. A few volunteers have climbed them in the past, and of course there is talk of making an attempt before our time in Bolivia is finished. We´ll see what happens...
(L - Muelle del Diablo from city, R- Mt. Illimani)
It was great to see other volunteers from our group at our mini-reunion in Cochabamba. We had time to share stories and discuss any challenges we were having in our sites. We also met with others working on similar projects and exchanged ideas. There was also a little time to explore Cochabamba again and have some fun. During the weekend, a group of twelve of us climbed 17,000 Mt. Tunari. The weather was much better compared to our last trip up the mountain in March and the views from the top were much more spectacular than before. It was so clear that we could see the huge Cordillera Real near the city of La Paz over 300 miles away. We had views of 21,000+ foot Mt. Illimani and 19,900 foot Huayna Potosi, two classic Bolivian peaks that are relatively non-technical and accessible to amateur mountaineers. A few volunteers have climbed them in the past, and of course there is talk of making an attempt before our time in Bolivia is finished. We´ll see what happens...
(John, Phil, and I around 13,000 ft)
(L- View from summit of Cochabamba Valley)
(R - View from summit toward La Paz)
(Summit of Mt Tunari)
Anyway, we had a great time in Cochabamba with everyone and are already looking forward to more stories and fun during our 1-year medical checkups in March when the whole group will be together again.
A few weeks after we returned from Cochabamba Erica left for an almost two-week wedding filled trip back to the USA. and I stayed in Bolivia and traveled a bit. Erica and I flew to La Paz the day before her flight and had one night together in the city before she flew out. We went out to the Zona Sur, an upper class neighborhood in the south of La Paz and walked around and had Mexican Food for dinner. Unfortunately the food was nothing special but we had a nice night and were marveled by the amazing city and scenery of La Paz. Erica flew out the next morning and I met my friend John who happened to be returning from a similar USA wedding trip that same morning. In fact, John was landing in La Paz on the same airplane that Erica would be departing for Miami on. So Erica left for her US trip and John and I set out to do some hiking around La Paz.
We had read about two popular day hikes, the Valle del Luna and the Muelle del Diablo. We checked out the Valle del Luna which was pretty, but turned out to be a fenced in area with paths and picnic tables. It was not exactly what we were looking for so we headed for the Muelle del Diablo (the Devil's Molar). We'd read that is was a rock formation about 45 minutes from the city on the rim of the valley with views back to the city and also out into the Altiplano. We were much happier with our choice as we had the place to ourselves and did enjoy great views of the Cordillera Real and of Mt. Illimani.
(L - Muelle del Diablo, R - Mt. Illimani in distance)
(Views back into La Paz city valley)
Anyway, we had a great time in Cochabamba with everyone and are already looking forward to more stories and fun during our 1-year medical checkups in March when the whole group will be together again.
A few weeks after we returned from Cochabamba Erica left for an almost two-week wedding filled trip back to the USA. and I stayed in Bolivia and traveled a bit. Erica and I flew to La Paz the day before her flight and had one night together in the city before she flew out. We went out to the Zona Sur, an upper class neighborhood in the south of La Paz and walked around and had Mexican Food for dinner. Unfortunately the food was nothing special but we had a nice night and were marveled by the amazing city and scenery of La Paz. Erica flew out the next morning and I met my friend John who happened to be returning from a similar USA wedding trip that same morning. In fact, John was landing in La Paz on the same airplane that Erica would be departing for Miami on. So Erica left for her US trip and John and I set out to do some hiking around La Paz.
We had read about two popular day hikes, the Valle del Luna and the Muelle del Diablo. We checked out the Valle del Luna which was pretty, but turned out to be a fenced in area with paths and picnic tables. It was not exactly what we were looking for so we headed for the Muelle del Diablo (the Devil's Molar). We'd read that is was a rock formation about 45 minutes from the city on the rim of the valley with views back to the city and also out into the Altiplano. We were much happier with our choice as we had the place to ourselves and did enjoy great views of the Cordillera Real and of Mt. Illimani.
(L - Muelle del Diablo, R - Mt. Illimani in distance)
(Views back into La Paz city valley)
(Muelle del Diablo from below)
We went back to La Paz for dinner and then John left the next morning to head back to his site near Oruro, about 4 hours away. I stayed in La Paz one more day to do some shopping then I left the next morning for Sorata, a town in near Lake Titicaca in the beginning of the Yungas region of Bolivia. The Yungas is the area where the Andes drop off and become the Amazon basin. The altitude drops dramatically and there are high green valleys situated between snow capped peaks. As you continue down in elevation, it becomes more jungle like and soon becomes full Amazonia. Sorata is a small town at just under 7,000 feet (compared to over 11,000 for La Paz, and over 12,000 on the Altiplano) that has gained popularity as a starting point for hiking and trekking into the Andes or down into the jungle. Providing a backdrop to the town are Mt Illampu (20,892 ft) and Mt Ancohuma (21,068 ft).
(Views from Sorata)
I had bought a nice map and planned a long hike up to a glacial lake at 10,000 ft. Somewhere I took a wrong turn and found myself exploring a riverbed instead of heading up the mountain. I found some small waterfalls and ate lunch by the water. It turned out to be a much shorter hike but still enjoyable.
I spent one more night in Sorata and left the next morning for La Paz. The weather was overcast and I was sorry I hadn't taken a picture of the plaza earlier, so this is what I got. I rode a micro, basically a minivan back to La Paz. As usually I was the only non Bolivian in the vehicle, but what was different compared to Tarija was that the people were speaking Quechua rather than Spanish. It was cool to finally hear the old Incan language spoken by a group of traditional Bolivians. Again, I wanted to take a picture from my seat in the back but I had to be sly. I hope the picture captures some of the feel of the ride.
I was amazed at the city of La Paz and definitely want to go back. I'd never seen such a mix of cultures and flavors in a city so large and modern. We saw high rise buildings next to colonial churches, we could buy cell phones and DVD players in the markets or llama fetuses and dried armadillos right next door, we could eat expensive sushi or a huge plate of picante de pollo for around $1.00. In addition to the cultural buzz is the incredible scenery of huge snow capped peaks in virtually every direction. I think La Paz is one of the most unique cities I've ever visited.
(L - National Cathedral, R - National government building)
We went back to La Paz for dinner and then John left the next morning to head back to his site near Oruro, about 4 hours away. I stayed in La Paz one more day to do some shopping then I left the next morning for Sorata, a town in near Lake Titicaca in the beginning of the Yungas region of Bolivia. The Yungas is the area where the Andes drop off and become the Amazon basin. The altitude drops dramatically and there are high green valleys situated between snow capped peaks. As you continue down in elevation, it becomes more jungle like and soon becomes full Amazonia. Sorata is a small town at just under 7,000 feet (compared to over 11,000 for La Paz, and over 12,000 on the Altiplano) that has gained popularity as a starting point for hiking and trekking into the Andes or down into the jungle. Providing a backdrop to the town are Mt Illampu (20,892 ft) and Mt Ancohuma (21,068 ft).
(Views from Sorata)
I had bought a nice map and planned a long hike up to a glacial lake at 10,000 ft. Somewhere I took a wrong turn and found myself exploring a riverbed instead of heading up the mountain. I found some small waterfalls and ate lunch by the water. It turned out to be a much shorter hike but still enjoyable.
I spent one more night in Sorata and left the next morning for La Paz. The weather was overcast and I was sorry I hadn't taken a picture of the plaza earlier, so this is what I got. I rode a micro, basically a minivan back to La Paz. As usually I was the only non Bolivian in the vehicle, but what was different compared to Tarija was that the people were speaking Quechua rather than Spanish. It was cool to finally hear the old Incan language spoken by a group of traditional Bolivians. Again, I wanted to take a picture from my seat in the back but I had to be sly. I hope the picture captures some of the feel of the ride.
I was amazed at the city of La Paz and definitely want to go back. I'd never seen such a mix of cultures and flavors in a city so large and modern. We saw high rise buildings next to colonial churches, we could buy cell phones and DVD players in the markets or llama fetuses and dried armadillos right next door, we could eat expensive sushi or a huge plate of picante de pollo for around $1.00. In addition to the cultural buzz is the incredible scenery of huge snow capped peaks in virtually every direction. I think La Paz is one of the most unique cities I've ever visited.
(L - National Cathedral, R - National government building)
(Cathedral and Peace monument)
(L - Muelle del Diablo from city, R- Mt. Illimani)
(Market street in La Paz)
So after my travels I flew back to Tarija and bussed back to El Puente and our home. Erica still had a week in the US so I spent time in our town with the cat trying to get work going again. The town was still having electricity issues and we were getting about 5 good hours of power every evening. When Erica got back we went back to work on the school gardens and a worm bin. We mixed and prepared soil following what we were shown in training. After a while we even forgot we were digging through pig, chicken, and cow poop with our bare hands. We expect to transplant the plants coming from the seed bed in the next week and harvest everything with the elementary school kids before the end of their school year in late November. I've also begun helping the high school English teacher a few hours a night with his pronunciation and grammar.
(Our seed bed with 12 different species of veggies)
So we've had a good last month or so and are looking forward to Thanksgiving and a visit from my mom and our first Christmas in Bolivia. The cat is also doing well and has his special appointment with the surgeon next week, he will not be a papá.
(Salta taking a siesta)
Hasta lluego,
Marcos
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