Where in the World?

Wondering where all this went down? Click on the following link to see a map. It seems to work best on Internet Explorer.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=110835804222918428459.00045e5639df088e4e973&ll=33.811102,-112.07428&spn=1.006373,1.73584&z=9

Friday, March 27, 2009

Back in North America

This final entry has been really hard to start, work on, and particularly to finish. I guess I'm in denial that this adventure has come to a close. Yet, it is the beginning of the next one as well! Here it goes:

Backtrack with me if you will, to February, when we met up with my parents in Costa Rica. They had arrived a few days earlier and navigated their way to the west coast via rental car and ferry boat. We arrived in San Jose by bus from Panama and took a 25 minute flight with two other people in a tiny jet plane, and my parents picked us up at the tiny airport on the Nicoya Peninsula. They had bravely navigated poorly signed dirt roads to come get us and I was very proud of them. Here we are shortly after arrival at the Luz de Vida Resort at Santa Teresa, near Malpais (shout out to Marina for the recommendation!).Who knew that the dirt roads would generate a lot of dust in the dry season? We saw many locals riding bikes and motorcycles wearing respirator masks to shield themselves from the clouds of dust that settled into the air after each larger vehicle passed by.A beautiful shot that my mom took at Santa Teresa before Mark and I arrived.Mark, me, and dad after our surfing lesson. We all got up by the end of the lesson and were able to ride at least one wave in to the shore. It was so nice to get to surf without a wetsuit, since the water was just the right temperature.On a hike in the Cabo Blanco Preserve (thanks to Marina for the recommendation!) we heard and saw lots of wildlife. At the end, a group of at least 10 white-faced capuchins were commuting home from work and we got to see them parade by. Can you spot the monkey in this picture?My favorite bird of all time: The Urraca Copetona, otherwise known at the White-Throated Magpie Jay. Who is in charge of all these boring bird names!? It had the widest repertoire of song and sound effects that I've ever heard. Later on, you'll hear about it in Nicaragua as well.On our way from the Nicoya Peninsula back to the mainland by ferry, we saw this van parked on board. Better hope you don't put one of the advertised car batteries under your hood. Make sure to read the brand name out loud if that comment doesn't make sense. It's a Gonher!These were some yellow tailed Oropendulas that were feasting on the fruit at the Arenal Observatory Lodge. We were able to see lots of wildlife there with the backdrop of a steaming, rock-ejecting volcano.I love coatimundi! These little raccoon like mammals can really do some damage with their big claws, but I just can't resist their cute little noses. These guys would come clean up any fruit left behind by the oropendulas and would get ridiculously close to you.We took a Canopy Tour at Ecoglide and I was so proud of my mom for conquering her fear of the unknown. I had a wonderful time and was practically offered a job because they said I was so comfortable with the gear and managing risks. It reminded me a lot of white water rafting.The we underwent a short training session to learn how to hang in the harness and use the hand brake, which was basically a heavy leather glove that you squeezed on the cable to slow yourself down. The only problem was that some of the cables were long enough that if you used the break too soon, you wouldn't reach the next platform. In that case, the guides would come out and give you a tow to the next place.





The cables from tree to tree went by pretty fast, but my favorite part was the Tarzan swing. You got strapped on to this long cable and had to step off a platform, freefall and then swing back and forth a few times before being detached by the guides. We were some of the last people to go, so I was a little nervous by the time I got to go.





When you're high on adrenaline, cold crappy beer tastes divine!!On our last day in the Arenal area, we did a little shopping and tried to visit a local waterfall but got there after the trail was closed for the afternoon. On our way back to town, we stopped at a wooden sculpture art gallery and we saw the kantuta flower growing in the parking lot! This is one of the national flowers of Bolivia, as seen in the mural back in our Peace Corps site.
Here we are at our favorite restaurant in Arenal.
Dad and I took a hiking tour hosted by the lodge and got to see this beautiful waterfall. Didn't get to see a lot of wildlife because our group was a bit noisy.The last phase of our Costa Rica trip with my folks was to head west to the Caribbean fishing town of Puerto Viejo, where Mark and I had stayed after attending Marina's wedding last year. The weather unfortunately didn't get the memo that we were coming, so we were pretty much rained out. There were really only a few hours without rain during the three days we were there, but we made the best of it. Got massages at a local spa, ate some seafood, shopped a little bit. The morning that we planned to drive back to San Jose, it had been raining all night and there was talk of the road flooding and closing. So we got going as soon after breakfast, loading the car in the torrential downpour. After being on the road about 10 minutes, we pulled up on a tree that had fallen, blocking the road. There were only 3 cars ahead of us, and some locals were already setting to work with their machetes to cut up the tree. Since we weren't going to be going anywhere with the tree in the way, we got out and helped clear the cut sections of tree to the side of the road. It was slow-going at first, especially since you had to watch the placement of your hands due to the spiky bark of the tree.






It was wet, but warm out. What a team effort.







As we cleared the tree, we discovered that a second tree had fallen just a little down the road. By that time, the rain was lightening up and some community members had showed up with their gas powered chainsaws. Soon there was enough room to get by both trees so we hopped in and got going again, concerned that there might be more obstacles ahead.

How about driving through a bunch of water flowing perpendicular to the road. Here's our insider video. Watch the crazy motorcyclists.





After encountering a few road-blocking accidents and at least one mudslide, we arrived safely in San Jose and checked in to the luxurious Doubletree Inn. Off to find the Namu gallery, owned by a friend's mom who immigrated to Costa Rica indirectly from Ireland. The gallery specializes in facilitating the sale of the work from local indigenous artisans.Although it was a bit rainy and windy, the sun still came out with a beautiful arcoiris- rainbow.
On to Nicaragua! Just over the southern border, we stayed a night in Rivas near the shore of Lake Nicaragua. We headed to Isla Ometepe the next day, a double volcanic island in the lake via ferry. In the shared taxis on our way to the farm we'd be camping at, we saw this banana orchard with interspersed lava rock.
After setting up our tent on the cement porch behind the coffee farmhouse, we heard the loud grunt of the howler monkey and went to investigate- they were hanging out in the nearest tree munching on unripe fruit!
Yet another branding that wouldn't fly in the US. This cleaning solution might work just fine, but you better be afraid. Very afraid.
While Mark flew to Detroit for his successful Western Michigan University interview, I stayed at the farmhouse and chilled out. It was the first time we'd been away from each other at night since before evacuation. I don't think I spoke a single word to anyone the first day because it was nice to be on my own a little, but after about 24 hours I started making friends with the kitchen workers and other visitors to the farm. I found a small group of musicians, so each night we'd take our guitars to the back porch and play and sing until we couldn't come up with new songs. At the farm, you could buy a meal for about $2.50 and they knew how to make some tasty stuff. By the end of the week I had eaten lots of fresh fruit, fried rice, beans, salad, and french toast. It was delightful. I was sad to leave but happy to be meeting up with Mark again on the mainland. Took the ferry with some new friends and then went our separate ways in Rivas. I took the bus north to meet up with Mark in Granada. We had delicous sweet-corn-on-the-gigantic-cob being sold by this young man out of a bucket lined with a trash bag.
In the hotel in Granada, a poet had proceeded us. I've translated his words the best I can so that you may enjoy.















On the wall:





he estado aqui, en el 2008, yo nacido en 1988. Todo lo que haga en esta vida tendrá eco en la eternidad.
I have been here in 2008, I was born in 1988. Everything one does in this life will echo in eternity.













Near showerhead:



El agua de puede calmar la sed pero jamás te limpiará el alma





Water can calm your thirst but it will never clean your soul























Behind TV:





La nieve mata a la rosa y el sol consume a la nieve y asi son vencidos los que vencen





The snow kills the rose and the sun consumes the snow and thus those that win are overcome


Dig it, Daddy-O. (I added that part)









To Honduras! We didn't spend long there, just enough to visit the ruins at Copan and see our PC Bolivia friend, Tim, in Tegulcigalpa. Thus, we entered the Mayan domain, stretching from the northern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula south into Honduras and El Salvador.
Mark had described some of the ruins and how old they were, but seeing an old tree growing on TOP of them gives you a real sense of the age of these places.




Perhaps this tree started as a seed that fell in the crack between the stones and has since made it's way through against all odds.
On the way out of the site, I stopped to use the restroom and almost sat down next to this dude.
This is a restored temple that would have been sitting ontop of a pyramid outdoors. The people at Copan were known for their intricate sculpture, and the bright colors shown here are typical of most Mayan temple decor. In the visitor's center, Copan is referred to as the Paris of the Mayan world.

From Honduras, we headed to Lago Atitlan. Aldous Huxley once described it as "the most beautiful lake in the world." I wonder if he'd ever been to Tahoe? It was certainly dramatic, with smoking volcanoes surrounding the calm, clear blue lake. We took a motorboat taxi to San Marcos, where we planned to relax for a few days. At one of the stops along the way, we saw these small children hauling cement cinder blocks. It was a reality check for certain, that Guatemala must have little or no concept or enforcement of child labor laws. We watched with awe and a little anger as the children worked like ants with a mission to get their work done in the midday heat. One of the boys was able to tie three blocks together and haul it using a rope supported by his forehead like I saw people carrying loads in Nepal.

In San Marcos, we signed up for daily yoga and meditation classes, got massages, and hung out with new age gringos for a change. Then we moved on to camp at the ruins at Tikal. These ruins differed dramatically from Copan in that they were located in the middle of relatively untamed jungle. From above, you could only see a few temple tops peeking out of the trees, so I was impressed that they'd ever been found. It made you wonder how many more sites are out there undiscovered. The scale of Tikal dwarfed that of Copan- it was spread out over a much wider area and took about a half an hour to cross on foot. We saw more coati, this one had an open wound that may have been a territory related dispute.
Other wildlife at Tikal- Variegated Turkeys- technically an endangered species, but really ugly.
The ruins we visited so far have been enough off the beaten path that we had them to ourselves much of the time. As we moved north, the ruins became more accessible so we had to learn to visit the ruins before the tour busses arrived. I was impressed at how the experience changed drastically when you could hear and feel the presence of other people. When you were in the ruins by yourself it felt more sacred and you could hear the birds and perhaps some spirits from the past. Once the tourists arrived, it may have been a more accurate experience of what it was like to be there in the time of the Mayans since these were cultural centers. I doubt the Mayans were as loud as obnoxious as tourists can be, but it was interesting to hear the way the sounds bounced around the courtyards and public gathering spaces. When you were up ontop of the pyramids, you could see how a king or priest could easily address a large group of people with little amplification.

As we arrived in southern Mexico, it started to set in that we were close to home. Having been to Mexico in the past, it felt more familiar. However, we still had plenty to see and learn. The first ruin we visited was in Palenque- one of the more developed tourist sites with official trails and lots of vendors selling cheap replicas of mayan artifacts. Although there were nicely groomed pathways, we were used to being able to explore the ruins freely, so we entered some of them that the bus tours failed to explore. In a dark chamber inside a building, Mark took this picture of me. The only source of light was the camera flash so it was pretty freaky to get in there.Here's Mark walking up the main building at Palenque.
The stones used to build the temples and structures are limestone and over time water breaks it down. I thought this was candle wax dripping down from the ceiling, but they were solid rock "stone-sickles."
There are ancient graffiti markings carved into the stone- evidence of early european explorers.
Every girl's best friend while traveling- Kranky - chocolate covered corn flakes. And yes, they are a good remedy for krankiness.After our swim in the underground pool, Mark peruses the map while dogs snack on some of our leftovers.When we arrived in Punta Allen, we visited the grocery store and found this classy mural on the side of the building.We spent as much time as we could on the beach at Punta Allen, snorkelling around and diving off the small pier.
Can you spot the well-camouflaged stingray?These little fish were almost undetectable as they swam right under the surface of the water.Tulum.This may have been my favorite place we visited in the Yucatan. If you're looking for a luxury experience in an isolated setting, I recommend Balamku Ecologically Sustainable Resort at Majahual.
Nevermind the roadblock... we just can't get away from these things! At least this one was authorized by the government.The arch at Labna ruins. This shape wasn't very common in the Mayan ruins we saw.Uxmal. Temple of the Magician.Our last week of travel before entering back into the states was spent in Mexico City. Where the shopping comes to you.This is the Bellas Artes, where the Ballet Folklorico would normally perform. The performance hall was being renovated during the time we were there, so we saw the ballet at the Anthropology Museum.Many of Diego Rivera's murals can be found in D.F.n This giant one is in the stairwell at the Governor's Palace off the main plaza or Zócalo.This monument stands in the grasshopper park, Bosque de Chapultepec, in memory of children who threw themselves off the government palace in protest of war. Legend says that each pillar contains the remains of one of the children.Now, we are fans of street food in Latin America. But we were not adventurous enough to try the sushi shack.Sopa Maruchan Instant Lunch- a favorite here in the capital city of Mexico. This is a photo of a picture menu outside a restaurant. Notice the scrumptious microwave popcorn as well.Our last ruin in Mexico for now, we took the bus to the outskirts of the city to visit Teotihuacan. These Aztecan pyramids were constructed in a different manner than the Mayan structures we'd seen in the south. Instead of building completely out of rock, the Aztecs filled this pyramid with dirt. Our timing was right to catch a Costa Rica vs. Mexico futbol game so we got all decked out.Concessions included beer, soda, popcorn, and fried meat sandwiches. There's that soup again!!On our last night, we saw the Ballet Folklorico perform at the Museum of Anthropology. Live music and awesome dancers!This was an artsy bench along the main street near our hotel. The last of many pictures we took in Latin America since we left the Peace Corps 7 months ago.The flight home...
We arrived in the US, not knowing our next official destination. Took the summer to visit friends and family, bought a house in Kalamazoo, Michigan and started the next adventure- getting Mark a Ph.D!

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